DL-Mandelic Acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) used mainly in cosmetic and skincare formulations for exfoliation, skin brightening, acne-prone skin, and improving uneven texture. Chemically, it is a racemic mixture of D-mandelic acid and L-mandelic acid.
INCI Name: Mandelic Acid
Chemical Name: 2-Hydroxy-2-phenylacetic acid / α-Hydroxyphenylacetic acid
CAS No.: 90-64-2 (commonly used for DL-mandelic acid)
Molecular Formula: C₈H₈O₃
Molecular Weight: 152.15 g/mol
Appearance: White to off-white crystalline powder
Solubility: Soluble in water and alcohol
Cosmetic & Skincare Uses
Chemical exfoliant: Helps loosen and remove dead surface skin cells, leaving skin smoother and more refined.
Acne-prone and oily skin: Commonly incorporated into exfoliating products intended to help keep pores clear and improve the appearance of blemish-prone skin.
Hyperpigmentation & dark spots: Can help improve the appearance of post-acne marks, uneven pigmentation, and dull skin by promoting surface-cell turnover.
Skin brightening: Helps produce a more even-looking, radiant complexion.
Fine lines & photoaged skin: Regular exfoliation can improve the appearance of roughness and superficial fine lines.
Texture & enlarged pores: Useful in resurfacing formulations designed to improve uneven texture and the visible appearance of pores.
Gentler AHA option: Mandelic acid has a relatively large molecular structure compared with glycolic acid, so it tends to penetrate the skin more slowly and is often chosen for formulations intended to provide more gradual exfoliation.
For DL-Mandelic Acid in skincare, the appropriate usage rate depends strongly on whether you are making a daily-use cosmetic or a professional peel.
Typical DL-Mandelic Acid Usage Level
Gentle cleanser / rinse-off 0.5–2%
Daily toner 1–5%
Brightening serum 2–5%
Exfoliating serum 5–10%
Acne / blemish treatment 5–10%
Strong at-home exfoliant 10–15%
Professional chemical peel 20–40%
Typical Cosmetic Applications
DL-Mandelic Acid can be formulated into facial serums, toners, exfoliating solutions, acne-care products, brightening treatments, chemical peels, cleansers, and professional resurfacing products.
For leave-on consumer skincare, concentration and final product pH are important because the amount of free acid strongly affects exfoliating strength and irritation potential. Higher-strength professional peels require substantially more care than ordinary cosmetic formulations.
Storage: Keep tightly closed in a cool, dry place, protected from moisture and excessive heat.
DL-Mandelic Acid