Coumarin is an aromatic fragrance material with a characteristic sweet, warm, creamy, hay-like and vanilla-tonka aroma. It occurs naturally in plants such as tonka bean and sweet clover, although coumarin used in perfumery is commonly produced synthetically.
INCI / Chemical Name: Coumarin
CAS No.: 91-64-5
Molecular Formula: C₉H₆O₂
Molecular Weight: 146.14 g/mol
Appearance: Typically white to off-white crystalline powder/crystals
Odor Profile: Sweet, warm, hay-like, vanilla, almond-like, tonka and slightly spicy
Function: Fragrance ingredient / aroma chemical
Uses in Perfumery
Coumarin is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient and base-note material. It gives fragrances warmth, sweetness and a smooth, long-lasting character.
Application Purpose
Fine Fragrance: Adds warm, sweet, powdery and tonka-like notes
Fougère Fragrances: One of the classic materials for creating fougère accords
Vanilla Accords: Enhances creamy, sweet vanilla characteristics
Tonka Accords: Provides the characteristic sweet hay/tonka effect
Amber Fragrances: Adds warmth, depth and softness
Tobacco Accords: Provides sweet, warm and hay-like nuances
Floral Fragrances: Softens and rounds floral compositions
Woody Fragrances: Adds sweetness and warmth to woods
Soaps & Body Washes: Provides a persistent sweet fragrance
Creams & Lotions: Used as part of the fragrance composition
Shampoo & Conditioner: Adds warm, lasting fragrance
Role in a Fragrance
Coumarin works particularly well with vanilla/vanillin, lavender, bergamot, oakmoss-style accords, sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, musk and amber materials. It is especially important in fougère-style perfumes, where lavender, coumarin and mossy/woody notes form the traditional fragrance structure.
Important Formulation Note
Coumarin is a fragrance material not a skincare or hair-growth active. In skincare and haircare products, its function is primarily to provide fragrance.
